Guide on How to Take Care of Your DSLR
I have decided to do this guide as I was basically unprepared and surprised by the amount of work needed to take good care of a DSLR, especially when I have splurged tons of money on it. I tried to search the net for a complete guide but only managed to get bits and pieces on this topic. As such, I have decided to compile the information into a complete guide to enable super noobs like me take good care of my DSLR. All main topics are highlighted in RED with BIG font while subtopics in GREEN.
INDEX
A) DSLR - General care
B) DSLR - Cleaning and maintenance
C) DSLR - Storage
D) Li-Ion battery packs
E) DSLR bags
NOTE THAT MOST OF THE PICTURE ARE SONY BRAND BECAUSE I USE SONY DSLR
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A) DSLR - General Care
1) DSLR Camera bag
It is important to get a good DSLR bag that fit your usage. It should be well-padded and big enough to fit all your accessories but still able to protect the camera in case of an accident (e.g. knock against a hard object, bag dropped, etc). Some would recommend getting one with a hard case rather that a soft one. Thin cloth bags are convenient but might not protect you DSLR that well from external bumps or drops.
Here's an example of a good DSLR bag:
2) LCD screen protector
Make sure you buy a good LCD protector to protect the LCD from scratches. Cheap ones would be adequate but you'll find that it will eventually get many scratches and become unsightly. A better alternative would be a "glass-type" of LCD protector as below:
How to install a "glass-type" LCD protector : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wNian6sDRAg
3) Caps
Camera cap (@ body cap)
Ensure that you always cap your camera if you intend to remove the lens for prolonged periods of time for whatever reason (e.g. storage, lens cleaning, etc).
This will prevent dust from going into the camera and settle on the camera mirrors or sensors.
Lens cap
It is important to cap your lens anytime you are not using the DSLR. This will reduce the chance of the lens becoming dirty or worse still, the chance of the lens being scratched. A scratched lens would be expensive to replace and will not be covered under the normal warranty.
Rear lens cap
Again, if you remove your lenses for prolonged periods of time, it is important to cap the front AND back of the lens.
Note : If you go for outings, it would be wise to bring all the caps along just in case you might need to remove the lens for whatever reason. The convenient thing about camera cap and the rear lens cap is that you can screw them both together to carry as a single piece.
4) Filters
To further protect your lenses, it is also advisable to get a clear protection filter or a UV filter to attach to the front of the lens. This will ensure that any scratches or knock to the front of the lens will hit the UV filter rather than the lens itself. In case such a thing happens, you can easily replace the UV filter which is relatively cheap as compared to replacing the lens elements.
In addition, in case your front lens get dirty, it is actually the filter that gets dirty and not the front lens element. As such, you can clean the filter without any worries. This is especially true if something sticky gets stuck in front of the lens which require you to wipe more vigorously to clean it.
UV filters are usually cheap but try not to get a cheap lousy filter as it may interfere with proper light penetration and cause poorer pictures being taken.
Note : The UV blocking function in UV filters are actually not necessary for DigitalSLR (DSLR) but only for film SLR. That's because the digital sensor of a DSLR doesn't react to UV light. In the era of SLR using films, UV light can cause blur and can react to many colour films to cause a blue cast (10).
Here a good review of filters : http://www.lenstip.com/113.1-article-UV_fi...troduction.html
- the only problem with this review is that it takes into consideration the UV blocking capabilities too, which as mentioned earlier, is not necessary. However, the review do mentioned that the UV blocking function might be useful at high altitudes due to higher UV radiation.
5) Shoulder/neck strap
Every time you lift up your camera, make it a habit to immediately put strap around your neck. That way, you'll reduce the risk of dropping your camera.
Alternatively, you can coil your arm around the strap for added protection. This video shows you how to hold your camera properly including the coiling of the strap around your arm : Click here
In case you want to let someone use your DSLR (nobody touches mine!!!), make them wear the strap around their neck while handling your precious DSLR!!!
6) Lens hood
The primary function of the lens hood is to prevent stray light from entering the lens as it extends and shade the front end of the lens. This is especially true if you shoot in the direction of the sun, causing unwanted artifacts in your picture such as lens flare, decrease contrast and image degradation.
By using a lens hood, you'll also get the added benefit of lens protection from any accidental impact or bumps. Accidental touches and scratches are also reduced. However, lens hood are only usually used when you shoot outdoors under bright sunlight or shoot under extreme lighting condition as protection again impact is secondary.
Summary of advantages of lens hood:
1) Reduce unwanted flare
2) Richer colour/deeper saturation, improved contrast
3) Protection from impact or accidental touches/scratches
4) With a lens hood, many argue that you don't need to use a UV filter (which might degrade your images somewhat)
7) Batteries
One equipment that is often overlooked is the rechargeable batteries used in DSLR (or any electronic devices actually). The most common rechargeable battery nowadays are Lithium-Ion (Li-Ion) batteries which, like any other rechargables, have a certain lifespan.
Important : I was very surprised to find out about crucial important facts on Li-Ion batteries. Please read on the details of Li-ion batteries in the "D) Li-Ion battery packs" subsection.
8) Changing lenses
Most DSLR users (including noobs!) will usually have more lenses than they do cameras. As such, lens changing is unavoidable. As we all know, there is always a chance that dust can get into the camera every time you change lenses. Here are some tips to reduce this risk when you change your lens:
1) Minimize lens changing if possible
2) Change your lenses before you go out e.g. to the beach
3) Avoid dusty places
4) Turn off camera
5) Point your camera downwards - like you want to take picture of the ground 10 feet away (no need to point directly downwards!)
6) Change while the camera is on a tripod
7) Keep your back to the wind
Videos on how to change lenses (so easy!!):
Noob way to change lenses
Advanced noob way to change lenses (lol!)
Camera-hanging-around-neck lens changing technique
If-you-have-big-enough-hands lens changing technique
Super-glued-2x-rear-lens single-hand lens changing technique (got battery trick too!!!)
9) Moisture condensation
Be careful if you take your DSLR directly from a cold to a warm place as this may cause moisture condensation outside as well as inside your camera e.g. from an air-condition room to outdoors, from car to outside. An extreme example is like the time you take out a can of soft drink from the fridge and leave it on the table. You'll see beads of water forming on the can in no time!
The condensation may cause a malfunction of the camera and also promote fungi growth.
To prevent this, you can do a few things BEFORE you take it to a warm environment:
1) Seal your camera in a plastic bag (e.g. Ziplock bag or even normal plastic bag) and allow it to adapt to conditions at the new location.
2) Keep your camera/lens in your camera bag and let it warm up gradually.
3) If you got none of the above, some even use towels!
The key point is that you want your camera to gradually warm up to the same temperature as it's surrounding environment. Sony instruction manual mentioned that you actually might have to wait up to an hour depending on condition! The higher the temperature difference, the longer you'd have to wait.
If you don't know what a ziplock bag looks like, take a look below :
If moisture condensation occurs, turn off the camera and wait about an hour for the moisture to evaporate. Note that if you attempt to shoot with moisture remaining inside the lens, you will be unable to record clear images (Sony instruction manual).
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B) DSLR - Cleaning & maintenance
Cleaning kit
Buy a proper cleaning kit to clean your lenses. Please do not use toilet paper and water!
Here's an example of what a good cleaning kit should include:
1) Lens cloth (preferably micro-fiber type)
2) Lens cleaning solution/liquid
3) Lens brush - to remove dust at the edge of the lens
4) Air-blower - to remove dust particles on the lens
Alternative - lens pen
In addition, it is recommended that you bring your cleaning kit along if you're planning to go for an outing. If you do get your lens dirty during a photo shooting, you are prepared with a proper cleaning kit rather than becoming "Macguyver" and use your t-shirt to clean the lens.
Note : Hence, make sure your bag is big enough to fit your gears including the cleaning kit!
Cleaning your camera
To a pro, cleaning a DSLR is no doubt simple. However, to super noobs like me, it can be a daunting task because if you're not careful, you might just damage those sensitive parts of the camera.
Cleaning lenses @ UV filters
The important thing about cleaning lenses is prevention.
Cleaning the sensor
If you're a noob, most people would recommend you to send your camera to a professional for cleaning the sensor rather than doing it by yourself. The sensor is a very sensitive piece of equipment and if you do it improperly, you might just damage the sensor. You also risk exposing your camera's inner workings to dust if you open it at home. Maintenance after beach session, rain, etc.
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C) DSLR - Storage
Storing your camera and lenses
If you're not using your camera for extended periods of time, it is advisable to store your camera in a suitable place. In our country where the climate is humid, the best place to store it is in a dry box.
What is a dry box?
A dry box (@ dry cabinet) is a dehumidifying system which reduces the humidity (the amount of water vapor in the air) in the box. Usage of dry boxes basically prevent fungal growth on your camera/lenses and also prolongs the lifespan of your equipment.
There's a few reputable brand in Malaysia:
1) AIPO
2) Eureka
3) Sundry
The optimal level of relative humidity (RH) for your DSLR should be around 40-45%. (as compared to indoor surroundings which is about RH 60%+ (up to 80%+ on rainy days). To be on the safe side, due to the +-1% variation in settings, it is recommended to set the dry box's RH to - 42-43%
Here's some picture of dry boxes:
Please note that dry box is preferable only if you don't use your DSLR regularly. If you use your camera frequently (at least once a week), the chance of getting fungus on your DSLR is uncommon.
What's so great about fungus growth?
If fungus grows on your lens, it might just eat into your lens coating and cause permanent damage by etching into the lens.
If you ever do see signs of fungal growth, it is important that you get professional help as soon as possible.
- If you catch the fungus growth early, the lens elements can be cleaned and the damaged repaired
- If it is too late, you can more or less say bye-bye to your lens. The damage is irreversible and permanent, leading to poorer image quality when you shoot pictures with the affected lens
Fungus growth also applies to your camera's sensor.
Facts about fungus and DSLR :
Most ideal condition for fungus growth
1)Humidity level >50%
- Peak growing rate around 70-90% humidity (which is the common humidity level for our climate)
2) Dark places
3) Stagnant air
4) Temperature between 10-35 degrees celcius
Easily infected places :
1) Camera bags
2) Store rooms
Important : Do not keep your DSLR in your carry bag as a storage bag. Unless you live in a very dry, low-humidity place, the stagnant air and moisture might just promote fungal growth.
Here's an example of fungus growing on lenses:
What if I can't afford a dry box?
- Most enthusiast would say you're lying as you could afford to buy a DSLR!!!
- If you're equipment gets fungal growth, the cost of servicing and repair might be more than the cost of the dry box.
Anyway, if you're really cash tight and don't think a dry box is necessary, there are some alternatives to dry boxes :
a) Air-tight container + dehumidifier/dessicant packs
A cheaper alternative is to buy an air-tight container and a dehumidifier like the "Thirsty Hippo" or silica dessicant packs/gels.
These cheap alternatives don't cost much but in the long run (over a few years), it might add up to a significant amount of money spent.
Another better alternative is using "Reusable" Silica gel packets that are usually sold by camera shops. These items can be recycled by heating them in the oven.
This is what Thirsty Hippo looks like:
Silica gels :
There are a few problems with this method:
1) The humidity level in the box will be unregulated and the thirsty hippo might suck too much moisture. This may make the rubber seals on your DSLR turn hard and crack.
- one way to reduce this risk is to open the box regularly, maybe once a week (or even more frequent)
2) You have to replace the dehumidifier/dessicants regularly depending on how long they last
3) For long-term usage (in terms of years), you might spend money close to or above the cost of a small dry box
b) Good storage practices
Just in case you don't use a drybox and don't use the air-tight container method, it is important to have good storage practices for your equipments:
1) Don't store in darkness (e.g. store in a glass cabinet ensuring lots of indirect/direct light)
2) Ensure the cabinet has a good air-flow
3) Keep as far away as possible from leather or uncoated wood
P/S : Don't store with UV filter in place (as UV light from sunlight will kill any fungus but UV filter block it)
c) Sunbath your lenses
Yeah, that's right. You can sunbath your lenses.The UV light will kill the fungus (remember to take out your UV filter)Here's how you do it:
- Place under the sun
- lens only (do NOT attach the camera body)
- Once a week (maybe)
- Duration (depends)
Disadvantage
- may dry up the rubber faster (reduce lifespan by making the rubber hard and cracked)
- may promote grease migration within the lens that could lead to oil on the aperture blades
Important : This method is rarely practiced and not generally talked about in photography forums. Do it at your own risk and I will not be blamed for any damages!!! Better do your own DIY dry box.
d) Flash the lens using powerful flash
Flash the lens - use a powerful flash e.g. f42, f58. Generates heat that kills the fungus
Here's how you do it:
- Aim your flash gun directly into the lens (without the body attached)
- 2-3 flashes is enough to kill or slow the fungus growth
- Once a week (maybe?)
- Supposedly safer than sunbath but less effective
Storage - lens on camera or off camera?
In actual fact, it doesn't matter if you leave the lens on or take it off. However, it is advisable to keep the lens on due to the following reasons:
1) Your DSLR is ready to be used once you take it out
2) There's less chance of introducing dust into the camera during the lens attachment/removal process.
Storage - battery
Please refer to subsection "D) Li-Ion battery packs" for further info.
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D) Li-Ion battery packs
Facts you should know about Li-Ion batteries :
1) Usually have a 300-500 discharge/charge cycles
- A “Discharge/charge cycle” means a single cycle of depleting followed by a re-charge until 100% of battery charge (i.e. one cycle of depleting to 0% and then charge to 100%).
- If you consume 50% of your battery on day 1, recharge to 100% at night, and do the same thing on day 2, then you would have just finished up one charge cycle of its battery life.
2) The battery prefers a partial discharge rather than a full discharge
- Frequent full discharges should be avoided when possible (that means using the camera until the battery goes dead or 0% charge)
- Instead, charge the battery more often
- A reference (for phone Li-Ion batteries) recommends charging once the battery has used/discharged to around 5-10% of total charge.
3) There is no memory effect for Li-Ion batteries
- Recharging a partially charged Li-Ion battery does not cause harm as it has no memory effect
- Frequent recharging does not shorten the battery life more than normal usage would.
4) Avoid allowing the battery to discharge completely
- Li-ion batteries actually include special circuitry to protect the battery from damage due to overcharging or undercharging
- This circuit is built to protect from the damage that could result if the charge of your lithium ion battery falls too low.
- Once the battery goes below a certain voltage (i.e. charge falls too low), the internal safety circuit opens and the battery becomes dead (irreversibly and permanently damaged). Again, this is a built-in safety mechanism that prevent the battery from being recharged again.
- So since Lithium Ion has no “memory effect”, it is better to simply charge your portable device as and when you can or remember
- This is especially true if you do not use your camera for a long time (many months), allowing the battery to slowly discharge until completely depleted.
5) If you don't use your camera for more than 1 week, remove the battery from the camera
- to prevent self-discharge if the battery is kept in the camera
- in extreme cases, due to self-discharge (until the battery is almost dead), you would not be able to charge the battery anymore
- It is basically to prevent the battery from being discharged completely
6) Hot environment
- Avoid using a fully charged battery in a hot environment for extended periods of time as a fully charge battery can go up to 45'c during operation
7) Cold (freezing!) environment
- Batteries do not function as well and run down faster in cold environments/weather.
- To prevent this, keep you batteries warm by either carrying your camera under your coat or carry your spare batteries in your pocket so that your body heat can keep them warm
8) Li-Ion batteries have a certain life-span
- The fact is, Li-ion batteries starts dying the moment it leaves the factory!
- The actual life-span of an unused Li-ion battery can vary but it can be expected to irreversibly lose 20% of the total charge every year from its original date of manufacture.
- Hence,
---- if you have a spare battery, don't keep it stored for years. Use it interchangeably with your current battery
---- don't simply buy 2nd hand Li-ion batteries. Check the manufacture date
---- don't buy "spare" batteries just in case you need it in the future. Save the money and buy it only when you need it
- Li-Ion batteries lose some of their capacity after one year and may fail after 2 or more years even when they are not in use.
- Once the battery has worn out, there are no way to make it work again
9) Storage
- Lithium-ion batteries can hold a charge for many months (they have a self-discharge rate of 5-10%)
- As mentioned before, if you're planning to store your camera for prolonged periods, remember to take out the batteries
- For prolonged storage, keep the battery at 70-80% charge level in a cool dry environment
- You can also store the batteries in a refrigerator as it has been found to greatly extend the shelf life (but don't freeze it!!!)
--- Ensure it is kept dry in the fridge (e.g. in an air-tight container). Long-term exposure to moisture in the fridge can cause corrosion
--- When removing batteries from the refrigerator, allow them to warm up to room temperature before using them in your device
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E) DSLR bags
There are many types of DSLR bags which can be divided into different categories:
1) Type of material - Leather, cotton, PVC, etc
2) Type of brand
3) Type of bag design - Shoulder bag, sling bag, backpack, etc.
1) Type of material
I would suggest avoiding leather bags because fungus grow easier on leather and may later affect your DSLR or the lenses.
2) Type of brand
There are many brands available in Malaysia. These include:
- Crumpler (Website)
- Domke (Website)
- Kata (Website)
- Lowepro (Website)
- Tamrac (Website)
- Thinktank (Website)
- Bagman
- Company brand e.g. Sony, Canon, Nikon, etc
3) Type of bag design
There are many types of DSLR bag to suit every situation. Some DSLR bags are fashionable, some are serious work bags, some meant for transporting(plane) and some for traveling.
They can be divided into:
a) Shoulder bag
b) Sling bag
c) Backpack
d) Travel bag
e) Beltpack
f) Harness and vest system
Whichever bag you choose (you may need a few bags for different circumstances), it is important to get a good bag that is:
1) Well-padded to properly protect the contents
2) Big enough to fit all your accessories
3) Have various comparments (that are usually adjustable) so that your DSLR and lenses fit snugly in the bag (and doesn't move around in the bag when you do move around!)
4) Security consideration (i.e. easy for thieves to steal your gears from behind if you wear a normal backpack)
a) Shoulder bag
As the name suggest, it is the camera bag carried on one shoulder. Sometimes called messenger bag. Example as below:
For some fashion-conscious people, shoulder bags can be a perfect fit as there are fashionable camera bags available (females only!). Example as below :
Shoulder bags are generally not meant to carry 6-7 pieces of gears. Depending on the size, they can usually only carry a camera body, 1-2 lenses, flash gun, some cleaning tools and a few small extra items e.g. extra batteries.
One thing I notice about shoulder bags is that they tend to move around as you walk about. Even leaning out or bending down to get something might be inconvenient as the bag will swing forward and sometimes fall out of your shoulders.
Note : There seems to be some confusion regarding the term shoulder bag and sling bag. Refer to the "Sling bag" subsection for more understanding.
Advantages of shoulder bag:
1) Can be loaded with more gears
2) Easy to access your camera
3) May count as a personal item which can be brought in addition to one-piece carry-on on most flights
Disadvantages:
1) A lot of weight on one shoulder
2) Dangle around during moderate activity
3) Difficult to carry around during activities which required good mobility
b) Sling bag
Sling bag employs a style that is becoming more popular in the photography world these days. The Sling bag is worn on your back, with the strap across the front of your body. When you need to access the bag, you don't actually need to take it off. Just simply slide it underneath your arm, and rest it on your chest, where it's easily accessible (20).
One good example is the Slingshot series from Lowepro:
Once you have used your camera, you can easily keep it back in the bag the same way you took it out.
You can also put the bag directly horizontal in front of you and use it as a stabilizing platform where you can rest both your elbows on the bag. This minimizes shake when taking pictures.
Slingshot reviews:
Slingshot 100AW
Slingshot 202AW
Slingshot 300AW
Advantages of a slingbag:
1) Comfortable and easy to move around (like a backpack)
2) Easy to access your camera/gears without taking off the bag
3) Opening for access to camera may be difficult for thieves to steal the camera while wearing the bag
Disadvantages
1) Weight distribution not as good as backpack (but still quite good)
2) Capacity usually not as big as backpack
c) Backpack
Backpack are excellent for users who need to carry the camera and their equipments. There are many choices of backpacks available. They are usually built to contain adjustable compartments to store your camera/accessories. Their sizes can range from small to large sizes : Small (3x3 compartments), big (3x4) and huge (3x5). Some has laptop compartment, raincoat, and tripod straps (to carry tripod along) which is more preferable for enthusiast.
An example of 3x4 backpack (3 rows x 4 columns):
and the amount of gear to carry
Advantages
1) Largest possible capacity for your gears
2) Comfortable distribution of weight
3) Greatest mobility for activity (arms are free too!)
Disadvantages:
1) Difficult to get your camera, backpack must be removed
2) Working with gears is uncomfortable, usually need to put down the backpack
3) Gears not in sight, higher risk of being robbed!!
4) Rarely counts as a personal item on flights
d) Travel bag
Some people use backpacks to transport their gear in long distance, some uses specially designed bags like the thinktank's Airport Security series, they cost a lot, but they definately protect ur gears in long flight. it allow u to bring almost all your gears to shooting location, unlike backpack, they cant really carry on your back, because with all the gear u carry, they easily weight over 20kg(hence, these bag usually coems with trolley), which is not good for your back. handle the back and your (human)body with care.
e) Belt pack
Belt packs are worn at the waist (like a belt). Their sizes vary and can be large enough to hold a DSLR, several lenses and other smaller accessories. It is easy and comfortable to move around while wearing the belt pack. In addtion, as it is worn in front of you, it is easy to access your gears as well as preventing thieves from stealing your gears. However, the bag might get in the way if you try to sit, crouch or swat down.
Here's an example of an exceptionally large belt pack:
Advantages
1) Comfortable distribution of weight
2) Equipment easily accessible
3) Bag is visible while being worn
4) Generally counted as a personal item and can be brought in addition to a one piece of carry-on on most flights
Disadvantages
1) Sitting and crouching may be difficult
2) Usually have to remove while sitting (unless it is a very small bag which can be pushed sideways)
f) Harness and vest system
They are not actually not bags but a harness and vest system like below:
but another way to carry ur gears around, usually meant to carry with you 'all time'. they are usually used by professional(with jobs) like wedding photographers, because they need extra batteries and changing lens on the spot. harness and vest are not essential for normal photographer, but many would love to wear one to look cool;)
Camera bags that comes with your camera :
On many occasion, you'll get a free camera bag that comes along with your DSLR but might not be big enough or good enough to protect your DSLR. In that case, it would be wise to get a better one.
Bags that are bundled with a DSLR (if they don't give FOC (free-of-charge), bargain for it!) are usually simple, small and enough for the current camera/gears that you own at that time.
Here's a picture of the simple cheap FOC bag (some of us call it the china bag)
Here is the amount of gears it can store :
Many people hate this type of square bag(hey, it's free anyway), as it doesn't stay at one place when u carry it, it swings around, and it is very obvious a camera bag that attracts unwanted attention.
Small bag with lousy design might also make it difficult to store or retrieve your DSLR from the bag.
For example, my free DSLR bag is a small bag with zips(avoid this at all cause!)as below (left picture). I found that it is difficult to insert my camera into the bag without eventually getting the camera scratched by the zip on entry or on removal. My solution was to actually get a soft cloth (that's my old Guess t-shirt!!) that line the interior of the bag and protrude out on both sides of the bag to protect my camera on insertion and removal (right picture).
Note : My DSLR actually came with a better shoulder bag which cost RM240. However, I didn't like it and requested for another bag which is RM120. The vendor actually gave me a RM100 discount!!!
Choosing the right bag for you.
Some of you (seasonal pro) might own 5-7 bags,and some own 2. choosing a right one is important. I do not carry Big Backpack every time i go out, (i would love to own a fashion sling bag enough for a body and 2 lens).
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ALL CREDITS GOES TO LOWYAT SONY FORUMERS FOR COMPILING THESE GREAT FORTUNE OF KNOWLEDGE.
